Vilnius Cathedral links the Old Town with bustling Gedimino Prospekt

Tell people you’re going to Lithuania and, almost without exception, your announcement will be met with a furrowed brow while they try to think exactly where it is. As part of the former USSR, the country only achieved independence in 1991 after several years’ struggle, so it’s perhaps not so surprising that western Europeans aren’t so familiar with its history or geographic location

Lithuanians are rightly proud of their country, and if you visit with a completely open mind, you’re in for something of a treat. The locals are friendly and welcoming, hotel and pub standards are generally high and there’s plenty to see and do. If arriving by plane, Czech Airlines offer an excellent service from Manchester, albeit via Prague. On arrival at Vilnius airport, transfer by taxi (by far the easiest option) will cost around 50 to 60 litas (Lt) - around £11.

If you’re making Vilnius your base, try to pick accommodation somewhere between the main commercial street, Gedimino Prospekt, and the beautiful old town. You should have no problem finding a hotel which suits your pocket - there’s the upmarket Radisson SAS Astorija where a double room will cost anything up to £130 per night, or at the other end of the scale you could choose the Ambassador (situated perfectly on Gedimino Prospekt, right opposite Gedimino 9 shopping centre, which even boasts an M & S to make you feel right at home!) which is a ridiculously cheap £22 per night for bed and breakfast (and that’s per room, not per person!). You may find this suspiciously cheap, but trust me - there’s absolutely nothing wrong with it and it is a real bargain. Incidentally, it’s well worth picking up your copy of a little publication called Vilnius in your Pocket. You can get it at almost any hotel or bar, and it’s an invaluable source of information (just don’t trust all its restaurant reviews - I feel the publishers may be in their advertisers pockets a bit!).

Night view of Gedimino Prospekt, the commercial centre of Vilnius

The Lithuanian diet is geared up for cold winters, and therefore most of it is quite stodgy with a high calorific value. It’s great to try traditional food, but be prepared to gain a few pounds over the course of your stay. You might want to try zeppelins (stuffed potato dumplings) or potato pancakes. There’s also a selection of Russian-influenced fayre, including blinis (small pancakes served with various accompaniments).

If you’re a lager drinker, try some of the authentic local brews (worth a try even if it’s not your usual tipple) - bitter drinkers will find a decent selection of hostelries serving both Guinness and Kilkenny. Also on offer is a vast selection of wines and spirits - do try some of the Lithuanian vodkas.

• Must do things

Lithuanian Philharmonic - for a rare treat, an evening at the Phil is culturally rewarding. Try selecting a piano recital (tickets will only set you back about £4) for a sublime experience that won’t go on all night. The Philharmonic Hall itself is a stunningly beautiful building, inside and out.

Vilnius City Tour - guides for the tour are excellent, with a fantastic command of English. You’ll get a great insight into the city’s finest features, with plenty of opportunity for budding photographers to snap away. The tours leave Cathedral Square at 11am and 3am and last about two and a half hours.

Trip to Trakai - this is an absolute must and makes a superb day out. One of Lithuania’s many former capitals, Trakai, located just 28km west of Vilnius, is a charmingly small settlement, strategically placed in the middle of five large lakes. It is a popular destination for locals seeking a little rest and relaxation by the water and tourists hoping to storm the infamous castle. To replenish all types, Trakai now plays host to many a fine restaurant.

The castle at Trakai, viewed from across the bridge

Church of Peter and Paul - if you’re not particularly religious, it matters not - a visit to this church must be on your agenda. If you do the city tour, it’s included, but if you don’t, make sure you squeeze this into your programme. A beautiful church, inside and out, it offers much more than you might expect.

The beautiful Church of Peter and Paul

Museum of Genocide - not for the faint-hearted, but definitely worth a visit. The Lithuanian people suffered greatly at the hands of the soviets, and this former prison tells the story without pulling any punches. Quite chilling and sobering, but well presented and memorable.

• Where to eat and drink

Radisson SAS Astorija - this is a high-quality, well presented hotel, offering relaxed drinks in the conservatory bar whilst watching the old town go by. Drinks are no more expensive than average, but for a real treat why not sample the restaurant menu? For an evening of culture, you could tag this on to your Philharmonic evening (the restaurant serves until late). For something really tasty, I can recommend the wonderful stuffed cabbage leaves (a Lithuanian speciality) but whatever you choose will be beautifully cooked and presented.

Transylvania - a bit of a departure, as it’s a traditional Romanian pub/restaurant. They serve a wide selection of beers, spirits and wines, and a superb menu. Staff are friendly and prices are keen. You’ll find this just off Gedimino Prospekt (on Totoriu 22). Thankfully, there’s not a vampire in sight, either, as the whole place is themed around Vlad Tepes (the impaler). All in the best possible taste, of course.

Bar Centro - a nice, relaxed wine bar/bistro. Cheap house wine (but good quality) and a selection of delicious food make this the perfect venue for a chilled, mellow evening. Staff are again friendly and helpful and the surroundings are tasteful and comfortable. An intimate little number situated just up the road from Transylvania.

Bar Bobo - it feels as if you’ve stepped into a Victorian funeral parlour, but the gothic atmosphere of this place is absolutely superb. Sit in dimly candle-lit surroundings and enjoy a bottle of Chateau Neuf du Pape if you’re into your reds - it’ll set you back just over £20, but what an experience!

Markus IR Ko - a superb establishment in the heart of the Jewish quarter in the old town. By day a relaxing lunchtime treat (try one of their delicious salads washed down with a glass of local cider) and by night a funky jazz bar.

Du Drakonai - if you like Chinese food, then prepare for a sublime experience! Hidden away on Labdariu 8, this amazing restaurant is one of the finest I have ever patronised at home in the UK or abroad. The dishes are delicately cooked to perfection and the surroundings are tasteful and relaxing. Great staff, excellent prices and a vast choice of menu make this a must.

Busi Trecias - Try this place for its great atmosphere, fine food and home-brewed beers. It makes a perfect venue for either daytime or evening, when the moods steps up a gear. Frequented by locals both young and old, this popular pub/restaurant offers excellent service and very reasonable prices (situated on Totoriu 18).

• What to watch out for

Lithuania is a beautiful country, and Vilnius a clean and pleasant city. While there’s virtually no litter, spitting does seem to be the national pastime. Vilnius is not particularly threatening, but like all cities it pays to be vigilant. Beware of aggressive beggars - if approached just walk away without making eye contact. Avoid driving if you can - Lithuania has the highest number of road deaths in the whole of Europe, and five minutes in a car will show you why.

Words and pictures © Nigel Burton, 2008. Must not be reproduced without written permission.